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Le Grand Fooding 2013 Menyatukan Yang Terbaik di Paris dan L.A.

Le Grand Fooding 2013 Menyatukan Yang Terbaik di Paris dan L.A.



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2 ibu kota gastronomi di dunia menggabungkan kekuatan untuk perkelahan bandar yang bertenaga dan tidak ortodoks

Paris dan LA bersatu untuk meraikan penghargaan bersama.

Selepas empat tahun di New York, tahunan Le Grand Makanan Acara akan berpindah ke Los Angeles pada 26 dan 27 April. Perkelahan bandar, yang akan menampilkan kolaborasi antara beberapa koki terbaik dan gemilang di Paris dan LA, akan ditubuhkan di hadapan The Geffen Contemporary di Muzium Seni Kontemporari ( MOCA) di pusat bandar Los Angeles. Acara 650 orang yang hadir setiap malam juga akan menampilkan DJ dan pereka grafik teratas (termasuk artis jalanan Shepard Fairey) dari kedua-dua bandar.

Koki Paris yang mengambil bahagian termasuk Jean-François Piège (Restaurant Jean-François Piège), Inaki Aizpitarte (Le Chateaubriand), Grégory Marchand (Frenchie), dan Sven Cartier (Saturne). Chef Nancy Silverton (Mozza), Ludo Lefebvre (Trois Mec), Roy Choi (BBQ Kogi), Josef Centeno (Bäco Mercat), Jordan Kahn (Perubatan Merah), dan Carolynn Spence (Château Marmont) akan mewakili Los Angeles.

Menurut wakil acara Anna Polonsky dari Le Fooding, beberapa kolaborasi yang paling dinanti-nantikan termasuk "pizza yang boleh diminum" oleh Piège dan Spence yang bertujuan untuk menafsirkan semula "hidangan makanan jalanan klasik Amerika [oleh] secara kreatif membakarnya dengan keju yang menggembirakan dari Perancis . " Acara ini juga dihormati untuk mengumumkan penglibatan Nancy Silverton, kerana ia melambangkan sokongan generasi kuliner sebelumnya untuk inovasi menarik generasi muda.

Bagi warga New York yang mungkin meratapi perubahan lokasi tahun ini, Polonsky memastikan bahawa acara 2013 di New York City akan diadakan pada bulan September.

Tiket boleh didapati di laman web acara mulai 2 April, tetapi penjualan awal tersedia sehingga pemegang MasterCard. Air S. Pellegrino percuma akan tersedia semasa berkelah dan dua puluh peratus daripada hasil tiket akan pergi ke LA Food Bank dan MOCA.


6 Acara Makanan dan Minuman Musim Semi Di Los Angeles

Kami telah menulis secara mendalam tentang kecintaan kami terhadap pemandangan restoran di Los Angeles, dengan garis dan garis besar mengenai kawasan etnik yang hebat, makan malam dan pemandangan pusat bandar yang baru muncul yang sepertinya tidak mengecewakan. Menulis ini dari pejabat Midtown Manhattan kami, dengan cuaca dan jiran-jiran kami yang luar biasa, ini membuat kami ingin berpindah ke Los Angeles, seperti, Januari lalu. Kami juga cukup cemburu dengan acara makanan yang akan datang ini, yang mesti anda periksa sepenuhnya dan mungkin wang dalam beberapa batu syarikat penerbangan untuk dihadiri.

24 Mac
DFC Downtown Brunch Up
Kafe Arts District Daily Dose akan menjadi tuan rumah penyunting filem yang sedikit sukar difahami dan ayam goreng Dante Gonzales (baca wawancara kami) untuk makan siang. Pada menu: Telur orak organik dengan kentang jari pusaka dan ayam goreng Dante's Sock-It-To-Me. "Saya suka nilai kelestarian eko-segar bersama dan makanan yang jujur," kata Gonzales dari kolaborasi itu. Tiket adalah $ 15 / seorang. Maklumat: hariandoseinc.com.

25 Mac
Haiwan x Tempat duduk Catbird
Josh Habiger dan Erik Anderson, duo di belakang ruang makan terkenal Nashville The Catbird Seat, akan bersiap di Animal untuk malam yang kami pasti akan melibatkan tembakan Fernet Branca. Juga, banyak kursus. Lapan akan memberi anda $ 135 setiap orang. Tetapi kami fikir akan ada lebih banyak lagi! Tempahan boleh dibuat dengan menghubungi Animal selepas jam 2 petang Masa Pasifik. animalrestaurant.com

26-27 Mac
Makan Malam & Makanan Wain Terbaik Chef Baru di Paichẽ
Lelaki kami dari GPS Makanan Josh Lurie memberi tahu kami beberapa acara yang menjadi tuan rumahnya bersama F & ampW segera-untuk membuka izakaya Peru Paichẽ Peru. Ini adalah restoran ketiga dari pasukan di belakang Picca dan Mo-Chica (chef Ricardo Zarate dan rakan perniagaan Stephane Bombet). Zarate menjemput beberapa Chef Baru Terbaik untuk memasak dengannya untuk dua makan malam. Chef Portland Naomi Pomeroy pada malam pertama dan Jamie Bissonnette / Viet Pham pada malam kedua. Anda boleh melihat menu di sini.


Dilahirkan di Nantes, Gilles Epié mula bekerja pada usia 14 tahun dan berlatih bersama Alain Senderens dan Alain Ducasse di Lucas-Carton di Paris. [9] Setelah mengembara ke dunia dan mempelajari masakan global, dia kembali ke Paris. Dia menerima Bintang Michelin pertamanya pada tahun 1980 di Le Pavillon des Princes, koki termuda yang menerima anugerah pada usia 22 tahun. [10]

Dia bekerja sebagai koki di beberapa restoran Perancis terkenal, termasuk La Vieille Fontaine dekat Paris di mana dia menerima Bintang Michelin pada tahun 1983, restorannya Le Miravile, di mana dia dihormati dengan Bintang Michelin pada tahun 1986, dan La Petite Cour di Saint-Germain -des-Pres, Paris. [11] Pada tahun 1995, dia meninggalkan Perancis untuk menjelajahi masakan A.S., dengan sedikit berbahasa Inggeris. Dia bekerja sebagai Ketua Chef restoran Perancis terkenal L'Orangerie, Los Angeles di mana dia memperkenalkan gaya memasak yang diilhamkan oleh Provençal. Dalam setahun dia dipilih sebagai Chef Terbaik di Amerika pada tahun 1996 oleh Majalah Wain Makanan & amp. [10] [11] [12] Dia mengambil restoran dari meja kosong hingga ditempah beberapa bulan sebelumnya, dan membawa restoran dari restoran tiga bintang ke restoran lima bintang dalam tempoh enam bulan. [12]

Seterusnya, dia membeli dan mengendalikan restoran Beverly Hills Chez Gilles di Beverly Drive bersama rakan kongsi Jean Denoyer. [13]

Setelah menguasai gabungan masakan Perancis / California, pelanggannya termasuk pelakon, model dan ahli politik di seluruh dunia. [12] Dia telah menyediakan makan malam untuk presiden A.S. George Bush, Bill Clinton, Ronald Reagan, Gerald Ford, dan Donald Trump. Dia juga telah memasak untuk Presiden Perancis François Mitterrand, Jacques Chirac, Nicolas Sarkozy, Francois Holland dan Emmanuel Macron, serta Raja Sweden, Sheikh Qatar, Frank Sinatra, Kirk Douglas, Bruce Springsteen, Slash, Al Pacino, Harvey Keitel , Robert De Niro, Chris Tucker, Mick Jagger, Sharon Stone, Michel Polnareff, Gregory Peck, Richard Gere, Pierce Brosnan, Jennifer Lopez, Beyonce, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Princess Diana, Joan Severance, Zlatan Ibrahimović, Michael Jordan dan banyak lagi lebih banyak lagi. [14] Setelah 10 tahun di Amerika Syarikat, Epié memutuskan untuk kembali ke Paris setelah lokasi restoran impiannya dibuka berhampiran Champs-Elysées. Dia membuka restoran Citrus Etoile pada tahun 2005 bersama isterinya, bekas model / pelakon, Elizabeth Nottoli. Dia menamakan restoran itu untuk menghormati rakannya Chef Michel Richard dan restorannya di Los Angeles, Citrus. Untuk meraikan pelancarannya, majalah berita Perancis Perlawanan Paris menampilkan Gilles dan isterinya Elizabeth dalam penyebaran berkilau, berpiknik hitam di sayap jet American Airlines Boeing. [15] Citrus Etoile dipilih sebagai ahli Châteaux & amp Hotels Collection - Meja yang berprestij. [16] The New York Times menyenaraikan Citrus Etoile sebagai restoran baru "mesti dikunjungi" di Paris pada tahun 2006, dengan menyatakan "Chef Epie adalah pemakan kuliner sejati." Pada tahun 2006, Pengembara Condé Nast menamakan Citrus Etoile sebagai salah satu daripada 100 Restoran Terhangat di dunia. Citrus Etoile juga dipaparkan dalam buku Alain Ducasse, J'Aime Paris. [17] [18] Setelah 13 tahun berjaya, Chef Epié menjual Citrus Etoile dan memutuskan untuk kembali ke Amerika, sebuah negara yang selalu dia cintai. [19] [20]

Chef Epié adalah wartawan makanan Perancis untuk BBC dari 2010-2016. Pada Februari 2012, dia mengembara bersama 4 koki bintang Michelin yang lain di kapal pesiar MSC Splendida's Celebrity Chef. [21] Pada tahun 2012, dia diundang untuk berpartisipasi dalam perayaan ulang tahun ke-25 restoran Louis XV Alain Ducasse yang diadakan di Monte Carlo. [22] Chef Epié juga ditampilkan dengan sekumpulan chef teratas dalam buku masakan "La Truffe" dari restoran Maison de la Truffe untuk meraikan ulang tahun ke-80 dengan 80 resipi truffle pada tahun 2012. [23]

Pada bulan April 2013, Gilles Epié membuka Frenchy's, brasserie gaya Paris di Terminal Antarabangsa Lapangan Terbang Charles de Gaulle 2. [24] [25]

Pada tahun 2014, Chef Epié mengambil bahagian sebagai Guest Chef dalam acara amal untuk Michelle Obama di Puerto Rico.

Pada bulan Mac 2015, Chef Epié dijemput sebagai Chef Tamu di New York untuk acara yang dianjurkan oleh Chefs Club - Majalah Wain Makanan & amp.

Pada tahun 2015, dia adalah Chef Tamu di restoran La Clef des Champs di Mauritius untuk acara Minggu Gastronomi Perancis. [26]

Pada bulan November 2016, Chef Epié bekerjasama dengan Chef Juan Jose Cuevas untuk Seri Chef Dinner Tamu di Vanderbilt Hotel, sebuah acara kuliner yang berlangsung di Puerto Rico. Mereka membentangkan menu gastronomi tujuh kursus kolaboratif. [27] [28] [29] Pada tahun 2016, Chef Epié tampil di Makan Malam Tour Chef Selebriti James Beard di Santa Barbara [30] dan juga menerima anugerah Pencapaian Sepanjang Hayat FestForum. [31]

Pada tahun 2017, bersama dengan chef selebriti lain, Epié memasak di edisi kedua festival masakan Cuisine of the Sun, di Villa La Estancia Beach Resort & amp Spa di Mexico. [32] Dia juga menyiapkan makan malam gastronomi di Hotel IBEROSTAR Grand Paraíso di Cancun. [33]

Setelah memutuskan untuk kembali ke AS, dia menjual Citrus Etoile pada tahun 2017. Gilles Epié menjadi Chef Eksekutif Korporat di Juvia, Miami Beach pada tahun 2018. Dia mengambil bahagian dalam acara amal James Beach Beard "Beach Chic" di New York City pada tahun 2018. [34] [20] [19] [35] [36] [37]

Pada Februari 2019, Epié dijemput sebagai Chef Tamu di The Food Network & amp Cooking Channel South Beach Wine & amp Food Festival (SOBEWFF®). [38]

Pada tahun 2019, dia menjadi Pengarah Kuliner / Chef Eksekutif Montage Beverly Hills Hotel eksklusif, restoran itu dinamakan semula sebagai Gilles @ Montage Hotel.

Epié mencipta hidangan Perancis moden dengan aksen Amerika dan antarabangsa. California mempengaruhi gaya memasak Epié dan dia dipuji oleh penggemar makanan yang mementingkan berat badan. Dia juga menambahkan hidangan Asia dan Peru ke palet kulinernya. Dia terkenal mencipta hidangan dengan rasa berani yang kaya. Masakannya yang inovatif, lazat dan sihat sentiasa berkembang. [39]

Dia menjelaskan bahawa rahsia hidangan hebat selalu menggunakan produk bermusim tempatan yang terbaik. [12]

Di televisyen, Gilles Epié dan isterinya Elizabeth membintangi dua musim rancangan dokumentari realitinya di Perancis untuk Canal + / Cuisine +, Def La Vraie Vie D'un Grand Chef (The Real Life of a Top Chef) yang menampilkan restorannya Citrus Etoile. [40] [41] [42]

Dia juga membintangi 20 episod (2 musim) "Un Frenchy en cuisine" (A Frenchy in the Kitchen) yang ditayangkan di Cuisine + pada tahun 2015. [14] [43]

Gilles Epié telah membuat banyak penampilan di televisyen, termasuk: NBC News Miami (2018), [44] KTLA Channel 5 - California Cooking with Jessica Holmes (2019), [45] KTLA Channel 5 (2019). [46]


Adakah Makanan Klasik Paris Masih Ada?

Ia berlaku di MontMartre. & # 8232 Pada suatu petang yang tenang, di jalan batu besar di mana Toulouse-Lautrec, Utrillo, dan Picasso pernah berjalan, lukisan minyak menarik perhatian kami di tingkap Galerie Roussard, salah satu galeri seni tertua dan paling terkenal di Butte. Adegan restoran seperti mimpi itu menampilkan pelayan berpakaian hitam yang tidak jelas di apron putih panjang yang melintas di antara meja yang dibalut dengan kain merah, sebotol wain di satu, sebotol air di atas yang lain. Ini membangkitkan era yang lama lenyap, saat yang membeku dalam masa.

& # 8220Kesan, bukan & # 8217? & # 8221 Soalan itu mengejutkan kami. Kami mendongak untuk melihat wajah pemilik galeri yang berjanggut tetapi muda, Julien Roussard, yang kemudian mengajak kami masuk. Dari dekat, lukisan itu hidup, pelayan bergerak dari meja ke meja dengan mangkuk kukus pot-au-feu dan piring ayam panggang. Sebuah serbet yang tersangkut di bawah dagunya, seorang kedai makan merobek apa yang kelihatan seperti udang galah. Di meja lain, seorang lelaki dan wanita berpegangan tangan, makanan mereka diabaikan di atas meja di hadapan mereka.

& # 8220Bouillon Chartier, & # 8221 menyatakan Roussard, & # 8220 masih merupakan restoran yang berfungsi, & # 8221 pembukaan pertama pada tahun 1896 dan kini dikelaskan sebagai sejarah monumen. & # 8220Tidak ada yang berubah di sana dalam seratus tahun terakhir, dan tidak ada yang mungkin akan berubah dalam ratus tahun berikutnya. & # 8221

Lukisan karya seniman Serbia Marko Stupar membawa kita kembali ke hari-hari menggembirakan pada musim gugur tahun 1978 ketika kita pertama kali tiba di Paris dan Don mengambil jawatan sebagai wartawan asing untuk CBS News. Tidak ada yang mengecewakan kami: Menara Eiffel, perahu rumah dan tongkang di Sungai Seine, Katedral Notre Dame, dan Champs - & # 201lys & # 233 yang megah seperti yang kita bayangkan. Tetapi restoran inilah yang benar-benar mempesonakan kami. Sudah tentu, kami banyak mendengar tentang kemuliaan masakan Perancis, tetapi tidak ada yang mempersiapkan kami untuk pengalaman itu. Kami terjun ke tempat makan dengan selera yang tidak henti-henti, beribadah di kuil-kuil masakan haute seperti La Tour d & # 8217Argent, Ledoyen, dan Taillevent, tetapi tidak lupa juga untuk memberi penghormatan kepada kafe & restoran yang lebih kecil dan sederhana. Kami terpikat.

Di Perancis, makan secara tradisional adalah sesuatu yang lebih daripada memuaskan rasa lapar. & # 8220Kasih sayang akan makanan dan wain yang hebat selalu meresap identiti masyarakat Perancis dan negara ini, & # 8221 kata Alexander Lobrano, pengarang Hungry for Paris: Panduan Terbaik untuk Bandar & # 8217s 109 Restoran Terbaik, salah satu buku panduan paling teliti yang ada sekarang. & # 8220Frasa Perancis les art de vivre (seni hidup) merangkumi masakan yang baik dan menyampaikan keseriusan mendalam dengan mana orang Perancis membeli-belah, memasak, dan memakan makanan. Mereka bercakap dan memikirkannya terus-menerus. & # 8221 Stupar & # 8217s melukis seni seni de vivre yang diartikulasikan dengan sempurna. Pergerakan dan tenaga restoran, warna, rasa, dan tekstur makanan, dan penjagaan yang disediakan. Perayaan dan sensasi rasa makan.

Tetapi lukisan itu juga mengingatkan kita bagaimana restoran Paris berubah sejak bertahun-tahun sejak lawatan pertama kita. Dan dalam banyak kes menjadi lebih teruk. Sudah tentu kita menjadi lebih selektif jika tidak lebih cerewet dengan usia: Sekarang pengarang beberapa buku mengenai wain dan veteran berusia 35 tahun yang tinggal di bandar, kita tidak lagi memerlukan & # 233nues. Makan di Paris menjadi percubaan yang mahal dan sering mengecewakan. Kami merasa bosan kerana terpaksa menghubungi minggu atau bulan lebih awal untuk membuat tempahan. Harga melambung tinggi. Pemilik tempat-tempat kecil dan selesa, yang kami kenali sebagai kawan baik, telah bersara atau meninggal dunia. Pada waktunya, kami juga melayang.

Tetapi lukisan Bouillon Chartier telah menggoda kita dengan pemikiran kesenangan yang hilang. Ketika rakan membandingkan kebiasaan kita untuk tidak makan di Paris dengan mengunjungi Louvre dan tidak melihat & # 8220Mona Lisa, & # 8221 kita tahu bahawa ada sesuatu yang harus diubah.

Ruang makan Bouillon Chartier pada tahun 2013 (Fred Dufour / Getty Images)

Tetapi di mana untuk memulakan? Sama seperti pelawat pertama kali, kami merasa tersesat dan keliru. Kami membersihkan Michelin merah kami yang terpercaya, walaupun sudah ketinggalan zaman, tetapi bagaimana ia dapat bersaing sekarang dengan tumpukan buku panduan yang lebih baru, banyak blog, dan puluhan laman web sumber banyak orang? Kami memutuskan untuk memulakan dengan beberapa tempat yang kami ingat sejak dulu.

Persinggahan pertama, Val d & # 8217I & # 232re. Sebagai tempat pertama yang kami makan ketika tiba di Paris, itu adalah kegemaran sentimental kami. Tidak jauh dari Champs - & # 201lys & # 233es, berhampiran Arc de Triomphe, brasserie kuno yang menawan memaparkan ski kayu kuno di dinding bersama dengan gambar juara ski di tahun lalu. Pelayan yang sama selalu melayani dan menjaga kami. Selain plat du jour, menu tidak pernah berubah. Val d & # 8217I & # 39; merasa kekal.

Kami berasa tidak senang, kami mendapati bahawa ia tidak pernah berubah menjadi bar bertema Afrika yang disebut Impala Lounge. Kami tidak tahan masuk ke dalam.

Kami kemudian menghampiri Jamin, yang kami ingat sebagai restoran kecil yang sederhana namun elegan & # 8212tidak jauh dari pangsapuri yang pertama kami tinggal di dekat Place du Trocad & # 233ro & # 8212 bahawa pemilik penyayang kuda telah dihiasi dengan ukiran kuda-kuda terkenal. Sejak lawatan pertama kami pada tahun 1978, kepemilikan telah berubah, dan pada satu ketika restoran menjadi kediaman koki terkenal Jo & # 235l Robuchon, yang telah mendapat bintang ketiga Michelin di sana.

Lebih lega kami, Jamin telah kembali ke akarnya yang lebih rendah hati sebagai restoran kejiranan yang padat, menyajikan makanan yang lazat dalam suasana santai, hangat, dan ramah. Jangan panggang & # 8217s & # 160coquilles Saint-Jacques & # 160(kerang) dihidangkan di atas katil & # 160cr & # 232me de poireaux & # 160(daun bawang), sementara Petie & # 8217s & # 160cannelloni aux l & # 233gume & # 160(sayur-sayuran cannelloni) ternyata sangat kaya dan penuh dengan rasa.

Sekarang, dengan rasa lebih yakin, kami kembali ke La Tour d & # 8217Argent, di mana kami telah menikmati salah satu makanan paling menakjubkan dalam hidup kami. Duduk di meja yang menghadap ke Seine dan Katedral Notre Dame, kami telah merayakan ulang tahun ke-25 kami, memikat diri dengan foie gras, telur orak dengan truffle, dan itik panggang, semuanya dibasuh dengan segelas sampanye dan sebotol Burgundy yang mewah.

Dalam perjalanan ke meja kami, kami melewati foto pelanggan yang merangkumi raja, ratu, dan bintang filem. Tidak ada yang berubah.

Tetapi sihir itu telah pudar. Restoran itu telah membuang dua bintang Michelin yang diidamkan dan mendapat kritikan keras di media. Lobrano percaya banyak restoran mewah telah kehilangan arah dan menjadi jauh dan memberi perlindungan. & # 8220Ritus dan peraturan makan bintang tiga tradisional tidak akan membuat orang gembira lagi, & # 8221 katanya kepada kami. & # 8220Harga menjadi astronomi, dan semuanya terlalu formal. & # 8221

Seorang chef yang pernah bekerja di La Tour d & # 8217Argent bersetuju. & # 8220Sebelum masalah semasa, restoran gastronomi adalah tempat yang meriah, tempat yang menarik untuk menikmati diri anda sendiri. Tetapi kemudian kami membuat muzium & # 8212 yang salah & # 8212 muzium dengan suasana yang lebat. Orang mahukan kehangatan. Kita mesti menjadikan semuanya lebih ringan, termasuk rang undang-undang. & # 8221

Namun di sebalik pemerhatian yang mengerikan ini, tidak ada masa yang lebih baik atau lebih menarik untuk makan di Paris. & # 8220Dalam sepuluh tahun kebelakangan ini, pembaharuan landskap Paris cukup menakjubkan, & # 8221 kata Lobrano, yang telah makan di lebih banyak restoran di Paris daripada yang lain. & # 8220A generasi baru koki muda yang sangat berbakat telah mencipta jenis bistro baru. Itulah tempat makan terbaik di Paris hari ini. & # 8221

Orang Paris memanggilnya & # 160bistronomi, & # 160dari gabungan bersama & # 160bistro & # 160dan & # 160gastronomi. & # 160Walaupun bistro secara tradisional menampilkan menu terhad dan persekitaran tempat makan yang santai, bistronomie menawarkan pelbagai hidangan yang kaya dengan inventif, yang sering mencerminkan kekuatan globalisasi. Koki baru berasal dari Sepanyol, Scandinavia, Jepun, Australia, dan Amerika Syarikat. Antoine Westermann, yang memperoleh tiga bintang di sebuah restoran di Alsace dan kini mengendalikan Mon Vieil Ami, menyimpulkan dunia bistro ketika dia memberitahu kami, & # 8220 Matlamat saya bukanlah untuk mengesankan tetapi untuk memancarkan emosi, seperti sup yang enak, benar-benar sup sedap, sangat bagus sehingga anda tidak dapat & # 39; ingat ketika anda terakhir mempunyai yang sama. & # 8221

Empat tahun yang lalu pasangan Amerika Braden Perkins dan Laura Adrian membuka Verjus, sebuah restoran dan bar wain berhampiran Palais-Royal di tengah-tengah Paris. & # 8220Sangat menarik untuk menemui produk Perancis untuk pertama kalinya dan memasak dengan mereka, & # 8221 kata Perkins. & # 8220Sangat seronok berada di dapur. & # 8221

Tetapi ia tidak bermula seperti itu. & # 8220Pusat Serangan Paris oleh Amerika! & # 8221 menjerit satu tajuk utama Perancis. Hari ini & # 8217s jauh berbeza. Sebilangan besar akhbar Perancis sekarang bersemangat tentang masakan mereka, dan juga koki asing yang lain.

& # 8220Ada persaudaraan sejati antara koki lelaki dan koki di Paris, & # 8221 kata Wendy Lyn, pencipta The Paris Kitchen, laman web yang berfungsi sebagai panduan orang dalam & # 8217 untuk pemandangan kuliner. & # 8220Mereka sangat terbuka dan mesra. & # 8221

Sekarang juga para koki Perancis, yang kebanyakan dari mereka telah meninggalkan negara ini setelah merasa kecewa dengan tradisi yang membingungkan, kembali, dipersenjatai dengan idea-idea baru dan lebih banyak pengalaman. & # 8220Pasak Perancis teruja untuk memasak di negara mereka sendiri lagi, & # 8221 kata Perkins. & # 8220Mereka gembira dapat melakukan sesuatu yang berbeza. & # 8221


Apa itu bistro Paris

Kami telah menerangkan etimologi istilah bistro di atas, tetapi apakah perbezaan sebenar antara bistro dan restoran?

Mereka tidak semestinya berbeza. Sebaliknya, bistro adalah jenis restoran. Restoran Perancis yang santai dan santai yang menyajikan makanan yang biasanya murah dan tidak disediakan terlalu rumit. Makanan biasanya mempunyai persembahan yang lebih pedesaan di mana para koki akan mentafsirkan klasik Perancis dengan cara yang baru.

Ini bukan untuk mengatakan bahawa bistro kurang berkualiti, malah mereka juga boleh menjadi gastronomi dan layak untuk Michelin. Tambahan lain yang hampir berterusan untuk mana-mana bistro Paris adalah senarai wain yang luas sama ada dari wilayah tertentu di Perancis atau gabungan varieti anggur yang menakjubkan.

Jenis restoran Perancis lain yang mungkin anda temui ialah brasserie. Ini membezakan dirinya dari bistro kerana ia mempunyai akar Alsatian, bukan Rusia, dan secara harfiah diterjemahkan dari bahasa Perancis sebagai & # 8220brewery & # 8221. Oleh itu, mereka mempunyai sejarah dalam pembuatan bir dan biasanya ada bir di paip.

Oleh kerana bistro lebih kecil, quainter dan mengalir dengan anggur, brasseries lebih riuh, lebih besar terbuka dan terpisah dari bir, mempunyai tiram, sup, dan choucroute.


Kandungan

Lefebvre dilahirkan di Auxerre, Burgundy dan dibesarkan di sebuah kampung kecil bernama Charbuy. Pada usia awal remaja dia menyatakan keinginannya untuk menjadi tukang masak. Ayahnya membawanya ke sebuah restoran tempatan bernama Maxime dan meminta mereka memberikan pekerjaan kasar kepada Lefebvre untuk mengecilkan hatinya, tetapi dia menyukainya. [6] Cintanya terhadap makanan bermula pada masa kecilnya, menghabiskan banyak hari di dapur neneknya.

Latihan kuliner formal bermula pada usia 14 tahun di restoran L'Esperance di Vézelay di bawah chef Marc Meneau, di mana dia bekerja selama tiga tahun. Dia kemudian terus bekerja dengan Pierre Gagnaire di restoran eponimnya di Saint-Étienne (kini ditutup), kemudian dengan Alain Passard di L'Arpège, di mana dia melatih apa yang dia gambarkan sebagai "sekolah api", belajar mengawal dan bermain dengan panas. [6] Ludo mengakhiri latihan rasmi Perancisnya dengan Guy Martin di Le Grand Vefour, dari siapa dia menyatakan bahawa dia belajar sisi perniagaan industri perkhidmatan makanan. [6] [7]

Restoran Edit

Pada tahun 1996, Lefebvre berpindah ke Los Angeles di mana dia mula bekerja di L'Orangerie atas jemputan Gilles Epie, yang merupakan ketua chef pada masa itu. [8] Kira-kira setahun kemudian, pada usia 25 tahun, dia dipromosikan menjadi koki eksekutif dan kemudian melihat restoran itu menjadi salah satu yang mendapat penilaian tertinggi di California, menerima penghargaan lima bintang Mobil Guide.

Pada tahun 2004, dia berpindah ke restoran Bastide di Melrose Place, yang juga dianugerahkan penghargaan lima bintang Mobil Guide berprestij di bawah arahannya. Pinggan mangkuk yang diciptanya disertakan panini au foie gras dengan iringan berasaskan aprikot, poularde diperap dalam Pepsi-Cola dengan popcorn, dan panna cotta di atas dengan kaviar dalam sos karamel mentega masin. Setelah restoran ditutup untuk pengubahsuaian, dia memutuskan untuk tidak kembali. Dengan keluhan, Ludo bertanya kepada rakannya yang memiliki Breadbar, Ali Chalabi, apakah dia dapat mengambil alih kedai roti pada waktu malam selama 3 bulan ketika ditutup. Di sana dia mencipta pengalaman makan khas yang akhirnya dikenali sebagai LudoBites dan dianggap oleh Mingguan LA Pengkritik pemenang Hadiah Pulitzer, Jonathan Gold, sebagai "momen perubahan dalam adegan restoran Los Angeles." [9]

Dia membuat menu pembukaan restoran Lavo [10] di Palazzo di Las Vegas, dan kembali ke Los Angeles pada tahun 2009. Pada bulan Mei tahun itu, Ludo menghidupkan kembali konsep makan acara khasnya LudoBites di Breadbar selama 3 bulan lagi. Selepas larian kedua yang luar biasa, jelas bahawa LudoBites ada di sini untuk tinggal, dan konsep "restoran pop-up" lahir. Dia terus melakukan sembilan pop timbul LudoBites di Los Angeles, dan satu di Hawaii, merosakkan OpenTable dua kali dan membuat tempahan selama 6 minggu dalam 47 saat. [11]

selamat menjamu selera memanggil Ludo "raja pop-up." Penulis makanan, Richard Guzman menulis tentang pengalamannya di tempat ini: "Saya sedih. Makanan sudah berakhir. Di satu tempat, makan di Ludobites adalah seperti bergaul dengan seseorang yang keluar dari liga anda semasa bercuti dengan tidak ada rakan anda menyaksikannya dan tidak ada peluang untuk meniru pengalaman itu. " [12] Restoran ini mendapat pujian nasional ketika New York Times pengkritik restoran, Sam Sifton meringkaskan pengalamannya dalam sebuah artikel pada 3 Ogos 2010: "Malam pertama makan semua ini sungguh mengagumkan. Yang kedua adalah sekitar sepuluh kali lebih baik - setiap hidangan dilaksanakan dengan sempurna, dengan setiap rasa di tempat, setiap suhu yang betul, setiap piring adalah karya seni yang direalisasikan sepenuhnya. Baru malam kelima restoran itu dibuka. " [13]

Pada bulan September 2010, Ludo membawa ayam goreng ke jalan-jalan di Los Angeles dengan membuka trak makanannya, yang dikenal di jalanan sebagai "LudoTruck". Pada bulan Oktober 2013, Ludo membawa konsep ayam gorengnya ke tingkat seterusnya membuka lokasi batu bata dan mortar pertamanya, Burung Ludo, di dalam Pusat STAPLES. [14] Pada bulan Mac 2016, lokasi kedua LudoBird dibuka di City Walk, Universal Studios Hollywood.

Ludo kini dikreditkan dengan membawa bendera untuk santapan moden Los Angeles, yang dibuka Trois Mec pada bulan April 2013 bekerjasama dengan rakan-rakan Jon Shook dan Vinny Dotolo. [15] Trois Mec telah memperoleh 4 bintang dari kedua-duanya Majalah Los Angeles dan Mingguan LA, [16] dinobatkan sebagai Restoran Baru Terbaik oleh kedua-dua penerbitan, dinamakan sebagai Dapatkan Senarai Restoran Baru Terbaik Majalah untuk tahun 2013, [17] termasuk dalam GOOP - Senarai Menu Rasa Terbaik di Dunia di bawah $ 100 [18] dan membuat senarai Zagat 10 Restoran Terpopuler di Dunia untuk tahun 2013. [19] Makanan & Anggur Majalah dianugerahkan Trois Mec dengan Hidangan Restoran Terbaik # 1 2013 [20] dan GQ ditempatkan Trois Mec # 2 dalam senarai Restoran Baru Terbaik di negara ini untuk tahun 2014. [21] Mingguan LA telah menamakannya sebagai Restoran Terbaik # 1 di Los Angeles untuk tahun 2014 dan 2015. Trois Mec juga telah disenaraikan sebagai # 34 dalam 100 Senarai Restoran A.S. Terbaik untuk tahun 2015 di blog popular Opinionated About Dining. [22]

Pada bulan Julai 2014, Ludo membuka restoran keduanya, Petit Trois, konsep "bar-a-la-carte" nya. Eater LA menyebutnya sebagai "pembukaan restoran yang paling dinanti-nantikan pada tahun 2014." [23] Petit Trois terletak di sebelah restoran kakaknya, Trois Mec. Ia dianugerahkan empat bintang oleh Mingguan LA pengkritik makanan Besha Rodell, yang berkata, "Ini adalah salah satu restoran paling sederhana dan bercita-cita tinggi untuk dibuka dalam ingatan baru-baru ini. Ini adalah surat cinta kepada bandar lain, yang ditulis dalam makanan, oleh salah seorang penyair kuliner terhebat kami." [24] 'Jonathan Gold, yang kemudian berpindah dari Mingguan LA kepada Los Angeles Times, menulis bahawa "mungkin tidak ada piring escargot yang lebih baik di bandar daripada yang baru Petit Trois. "[25] Lesley Balla untuk Angeleno Majalah menyebutnya "Petit Perfection", dengan mengatakan "ini adalah bistro kejiranan untuk artis sejati, bagaimanapun, yang diciptakan oleh bintang rock kuliner. Dan, tidak menghairankan, itu adalah hit hebat." [26] Petit Trois adalah finalis James Beard 2015 untuk Restoran Baru Terbaik. [27]

Tayangan televisyen Edit

Pada tahun 2006, Ludo muncul Iron Chef Amerika, mencabar Mario Batali dalam pertempuran Big Eye Tuna, di mana Batali menang. [28] Bermula pada tahun 2009, Lefebvre muncul pada musim pertama dan kedua Master Chef Teratas. [29] Dia adalah hakim tetamu pada musim 8 Dapur neraka pada tahun 2010. [28] Pada tahun 2011 bersama isterinya, Krissy, dia membintangi siri tujuh episod berjudul Ludo Bites America di Saluran Sundance. [29]

Pada Januari 2013, Ludo bergabung dengan Anthony Bourdain dan Nigella Lawson sebagai hakim / mentor dalam rancangan pertandingan memasak masa perdana ABC yang dipanggil Rasa, dan dinobatkan sebagai "bintang pelarian" rancangan oleh New York Times. Kembali untuk musim dua dan tiga bersama Bourdain, Lawson, dan Marcus Samuelsson, Ludo dinyatakan sebagai mentor pemenang siri pertandingan hit pada musim kedua. Di samping itu, Ludo membintangi Bourdain dan Lawson dalam rancangan versi UK pada tahun 2014, di mana "Team Ludo" membawa pulang trofi dan dia dinyatakan sebagai mentor pemenang.

Penampilan TV lain termasuk: The Today Show, Access Hollywood, Extra !, CNN Money, The Talk, Carson Daly, NPR Edisi Pagi, The Rachel Ray Show, Good Morning America, Andrew Zimmern's Bizarre Eats dan episod yang sangat istimewa Tiada Tempahan di bandar asalnya di Burgundy. [28]

Pada tahun 2016 dia diketengahkan sebagai chef tuan rumah pada Musim 5 Mind of a Chef. Episod penuh boleh didapati di laman web The Mind of a Chef episod penuh

Ludo juga berkongsi suka akan makanan yang dimasak di rumah dengan membuat siri hanya web, Ludo à la Maison. Anda boleh melihat episod di laman web Ludo, atau di www.foodandwine.com [30]

Pada tahun 2020, Ludo muncul di siri masakan Selena Gomez, "Selena + Chef".

Edit Buku

Pada tahun 2005, Lefebvre mengeluarkan buku pertamanya, Keinginan: Pesta Lima Rasa. [31] Ini mengkategorikan resipi mengikut rasa: "Lihat", "Sentuh", "Bau", "Dengar", dan "Rasa". [31] Buku ini mendapat tempat kedua dalam kategori buku masakan di New York Book Show. [32]

Pada 2012, LudoBites: Resipi dan Cerita dari Restoran Pop-Up di Ludo Lefebvre dibebaskan. [33] LudoBites adalah catatan sejarah dan buku masakan, yang berisi kisah-kisah mengenai karier "bintang rock" dunia kuliner ini dan kisah penuh dengan inovasi cemerlang, restoran "pop-up" atau "touring" yang bergerak dari satu tempat ke tempat lain.

Pada tahun 2015, Lefebvre melancarkan Edisi Ulang Tahun ke-10 khas buku masakan pertamanya, Keinginan: Pesta Lima Rasa, dengan fotografi baru, gambar sampul baru oleh Lionel Deluy dan kempen seni sampul bersumberkan orang ramai bersama dengan Talent House. Ratusan kiriman dihantar dari seluruh dunia, dan akhirnya reka bentuk sampul diberikan kepada Charles Stanley Doll IV. [34]

Edit Anugerah

Menjadi terkenal di dunia masakan, Ludo adalah finalis untuk James Beard Foundation "Rising Chef Award" pada tahun 2001, dan dinobatkan oleh Relais & amp; Châteaux sebagai salah satu daripada 50 Chef Terhebat di Dunia. Restorannya Petit Trois adalah finalis James Beard 2015 untuk Restoran Baru Terbaik. Pada tahun 2017, Ludo adalah finalis untuk James Beard Best Chef West Award, dan juga untuk Program Kuliner Terbaik untuk persembahannya di The Mind of a Chef.

Pada musim panas 2017, Ludo membuat penampilan cameo di Apple Movie, The Rock x Siri "Dominate the Day" bersama Dwayne "The Rock" Johnson.

Memasak di rumah sangat penting bagi Ludo dan dia telah membuat siri video di rumah, berjudul "Ludo à la Maison" yang menunjukkan resipi rumah dengan kisah-kisah menarik dari kehidupannya di Perancis dan dapur profesional. Episod ditembak di dapur rumahnya dan diedarkan melalui www.foodandwine.com. Hidangan merangkumi hidangan seperti Moules la creme Chocolate Mousse Sole Meuniere Lamb Chops Ratatouille Parisian Gnocchi Floating Island dan Steak Frites. Episod dikeluarkan dua kali setahun. Sehingga Musim Panas 2017, 28 episod telah dihasilkan. Isteri dan rakan perniagaan Ludo, Krissy, menghasilkan video dengan kerjasama Big Tex Entertainment, Pengarah Jeff Ross.

Edit Penampilan Media Lain

Pada bulan Oktober 2018, Lefebvre muncul di rancangan YouTube Feast Mansion di saluran First we Feast bersama Joji dan Rich Brian. [35]

In August of 2019, Lefebvre made another appearance on the YouTube show Feast Mansion on the channel First we Feast. [36]

Lefebvre was the guest chef in the first episode of Selena + Chef, Selena Gomez's cooking show on HBO Max.

Lefebvre has described his food as "French with an international flavor." Some of Ludo's best-known dishes include rack of lamb in a caraway-seasoned broth with baby vegetables, entrecôte with vanilla flavored potato purée, and cardamom and pericarp pepper encrusted lamb. [1] He has been known for using over 200 spices and believes that his most unusual "truc" (technique) is making crême chantilly with fats other than cream, which he learned from Pierre Gagnaire, and his favorite cookbook is Le Pyramide Cookbook by Fernand Point.

Lefebvre resides in Sherman Oaks, California, with his wife Kristine and their twins, Luca and Rêve.


Tuesday, March 8, 2016

Plume -- Restaurant Review

24 Rue Pierre Leroux
75007 Paris
Tel: 01 43 06 79 85
Bus: 89, Metro: Vaneau (10) & Duroc (10&13)
Closed: Sundays & Mondays

This restaurant newly opened about 2-months ago. There's a lot of hype from the local media (e.g., Le Fooding), so our good friend J suggested we go. The restaurant is in the 7eme, a very posh area of Paris. As you entered the restaurant you notice that it's quite small, very tight, but not uncomfortable. There are 20 seats, not including a high table to the right as you entered that had a very tall table, almost like a tall bistro table for two.

At first impression the wait staff were very attentive, they took our jackets and asked us what we wanted to drink. Foregoing aperitifs, we ordered our usual one bottle each of white and a red. We perused the menu, and they had a very reasonable prix fixe menu as well as their à la carte menu.

All the restaurants I have been to since the start of 2016 gave us an amuse bouche, so I thought it interesting that they did not provide an amuse bouche, but that's OK, it was just something I noted.

JJ and I decided to get the prix fixe menu, whereas our friend J went à la carte menu.

Voluté de champaignons rosés, (Cream of chestnut mushrooms). We all got this dish. J did note that there were hints of truffles in the soup. Interesting, none of us at the table really care for truffles, but despite the inclusion of the truffles we found the dish just ordinary. It was creamy, had good flavoring, and with the 3-added croutons it gave a nice textural element, But again, just seemed ordinary and did not wow any of us.

Lieu noir, flower-sprout et beurre d'estragon, ("Coal fish" (pollack), flower-sprout and tarragon butter). JJ and I had this dish. The fish was perfectly cooked. The skin was crispy and the flesh was extremely moist. That's where it ends, there's a saying in French, "C'est fade" meaning it's bland. When I say bland it was painfully under-seasoned. Thank God the wait person gave us some "sel de mer" coarse sea salt. The greens, which we assumed to be baby kale, on it's own had more flavor than the fish. We were very underwhelmed by this dish.

Margret de canard, topinambours, blettes de couleurs et airelles, (Duck breast, artichokes, chard and cranberries). J ordered this dish. It was a nicely presented dish. I took a bite of the end piece and we both agreed it was over-cooked, almost tough, but as we got closer to the center it was more medium rare. I suppose the cut of the breast which was a bit uneven resulted in an uneven cook. Despite that it was tasty. I did, however, find the artichokes a bit rubbery. Again, a good passable dish, minus the tough ends of the duck.

Ananas roti, chèvre frais au citron vert, ( Roasted pineapple, fresh goat cream and lime). Cheese with lime? JJ was not too happy with this dish despite liking cheese and liking citrus. A bad combination. The roasted pineapple also was not endearing.



Tanzania 75% et fruits de la passion, (Tanzania chocolate 75% cocoa and passion fruit). This was probably the highlight of all our meal. The passion fruit ice cream with the chocolate mousse was a nice combination. The passion fruit had imparted a nice tart flavor and the chocolate mouse had a nice strong bitter-sweet chocolate taste which is characteristic of high content cocoa desserts. And, the crumble added a ice textural element to the dish. So, this was our saving dish of the day.


Vielle mimolette 24 mois, (Mimolette cheese aged for 24 months). Like I always say, you can never go wrong with cheese in France. This was a nice aged cheese. As cheese ages, salt crystals form and that's the part of what I love most about aged cheeses. It came with an accompaniment of an apple compote.

This restaurant has been written up as the new upcoming star to watch. Well like I always say, taste is subjective. We unanimously disagreed with the recent brouhaha about this restaurant. The restaurant is cute enough and the noise levels fluctuated between 70.9dB and 76dB, which is acceptable. The service started out great, but then it faltered. First of all, when we ordered our red wine, not only did the server not give any of us a chance to taste the wine, he poured a full glass for JJ and left. Having lived in Paris since 2008 I have to say that was a first for any of us, and the WEIRDEST experience ever. The French take such great pride in their wines, and to not allow us to taste it first, this act was almost treasonous. Secondly, after we finished our main courses we asked to get the menu back so we could look at the desserts, our wait person said OK, put on her jacket and left the restaurant to have a cigarette and/or make a phone call? We of course had to wait until she finished her cigarette but still had to ask the other waiter to bring us the menu. The service staff in the restaurant are pleasant enough, but really?

Now onto the food. The prices are reasonable and they have a nice selection of wines (JJ wouldn't know since his clipboard menu did not include the list). But the food was very underwhelming. The soup was ordinary, but it was tasty. And, although the fish was cooked perfectly, I can only describe it in one word, 'BLAND.' The duck was unevenly cooked. The saving grace for this whole meal was the chocolate and passion fruit.

We had two bottles of wine a red Terra Lisa 2013, and a white Eric Chevalier les 3 bois. The red was a nice light bio red wine with more rounded edges, whereas the white was also light, but much dryer. With two prix-fixe menus, one a la carte of 3-courses, and one coffee our meal came to 138€ for 3-people. I personally would not go back.


Divine Restoration: Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the Oldest Church in Paris

Halfway through a major five-year restoration, the Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés – the oldest church in Paris – is emerging phoenix-like from its time-worn gloom. Jennifer Ladonne investigates

No neighbourhood in Paris captures the imagination like Saint-Germain-des-Prés. In the minds of Parisians and visitors alike, it conjures a long history of sparring intellectuals and trailblazing authors and artists, whose preferred cafés and watering holes still figure prominently in the glamorous Left Bank lore. But the most enduring star in this heady constellation is the church that gave this borough in the 6th arrondissement its name. An abiding presence in the heart of the capital, the abbey has remained a steadfast symbol of Paris for visitors from all countries, faiths and walks of life.

Restored pillars, Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés. © AGENCE PIERRE-ANTOINE GATIER, P. VOISIN

A BRIEF HISTORY

A few rebuildings and a relatively brief desacralisation aside, the Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés has presided over the neighbourhood in exactly the same spot for more than 1,450 years, since the time of the first kings of France. King Childebert, the son of Clovis I, founded the church and monastery in 543, far enough from the marshy banks of the Seine to avoid flooding but close enough to profit from the river basin’s fertile meadows (prés). First named Saint-Vincent, the edifice was founded to house holy relics and the tunic of Saint Vincent of Saragossa, Spain, and was headed by Bishop Germain d’Autun. After his death in 576, Autun was sainted and the church rededicated to Saint Germain (who was buried there, along with all the Merovingian kings, until the late 8th century, when they were reinterred at Saint-Denis, Paris’s official royal necropolis).

Monks Choir before restoration. © Agence Pierre-Antoine Gatier, P. Voisin

The earliest abbey was richly dressed in a style befitting its status as a major pilgrimage stop. Adorned with tall marble columns, opulent paintings, mosaic tile floors and a gilded copper-clad roof that reflected the sunlight, the abbey was also endowed with vast tracts of fertile lands along the Seine and beyond. Besides a worn cornerstone still visible just inside the stunning Saint-Symphorien chapel – to the immediate right of the church entrance – and a marker for Saint Germain’s original tomb, there are no visible remains of the original edifice, which was looted and burned by rampaging Normans towards the end of the 10th century.

Restoration underway. © Agence Pierre-Antoine Gatier, P. Voisin

But, around the year 1000, a new basilica rose from the rubble in the newly-fashionable Romanesque style. The well-trodden entrance porch and central nave of that structure make up the oldest part of the church still standing today. By 1150, a grand remodelling project was underway, one of the very first to use the Gothic style in its arcades, three-tiered false loggias, arched windows and rounded ambulatory, all still visible today, as well as three towers (only one is still standing) and elegant flying buttresses – an innovation that predated those of Notre-Dame Cathedral, whose ground-breaking took place in 1163, almost simultaneously with the dedication of the restored Saint-Germain basilica.

By the 1630s the abbey was a major intellectual centre of France, along with the nearby Sorbonne, with which it exchanged – and squabbled over – land. Thanks to donations, purchases and a host of famous resident scholars, the abbey’s library, stocked with thousands of rare manuscripts painstakingly hand-copied over the centuries by the monks, was one of the largest and most important in France.

Waiting for restoration. Photo: Jennifer Ladonne

But the Revolution would dispense with all that. The monks were disbanded in 1790, and physically expelled from the monastery in 1792, all resisters executed. The church and its buildings were repurposed as a refinery for saltpetre, a major component of gunpowder. Predictably, in 1794 a fire broke out in the factory, causing a powerful explosion that destroyed almost everything but – miraculously – the basilica itself, which remained desacralised until the closure of the factory in 1802. If you linger on a bench in the abbey garden to the left of the entrance, you will sit among the few remaining fragments of the monks’ dwellings.

Though services resumed in 1803, the Revolution had taken an immense toll on the church and, despite various restorations, by the 1820s parts of the edifice were in danger of collapse. City architects (the abbey was now the property of the City of Paris) declared the church unsalvageable, while parishioners and other champions, including Victor Hugo, lobbied passionately to save it. And so, around 1840 began a major restoration – one that would last more than 30 years, spanning both the Second Empire and the Third Republic, resulting in the church we see today.

Restored pillars, virgin found in parking lot excavation, nearby on Place Furstenburg. Photo: Jennifer Ladonne

REDISCOVERED SPLENDOUR

Until 2016-2017, when the restorations on the sanctuary began, visitors to the abbey received an almost paradoxical first impression: the steep, graceful uplift of its Gothic pillars and delicate vaulting in marked contrast with its dusky, vaguely brooding interiors. A dolorous effect was created by years of water damage and grime darkening the walls and arched stained glass windows – some dating back 1,000 years – and obscuring the exquisite decorative wall paintings and murals languishing from the 1840s restoration. Much of the mystique and the unique identity of the abbey are thanks to these murals, most notably the works of Hippolyte Flandrin, a celebrated student of Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, who studied in Rome and was deeply influenced by Italian painting and fresco techniques.

Philippe Langlois, chairman of the foundation in charge of fundraising. Photo: Jennifer Ladonne

In 1842, Flandrin was commissioned to create a monumental series of murals on historic and religious themes for the church.

“He was called ‘the new Fra Angelico’ of his time,” says Philippe Langlois, chairman of the Fonds de Dotation pour le Rayonnement de l’Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés (FDD), the French foundation in charge of fundraising.

“All the colour you see is the original paint, perfectly preserved in a layer of encaustic wax, a technique reinvented from the Renaissance.”

The church at night. © Agence Pierre-Antoine Gatier, P. Voisin

Using only a mild soap, tiny brushes, sponges and Q-tips, the gorgeous, saturated colours and gilding of the walls and pillars are being liberated section by section from their former gloom to utterly dazzling effect. But if the process is painstaking, so is the fundraising. While the City of Paris, still the owner of the walls and real estate of the church, takes much of the glory for the project, it contributes a mere 15 per cent of the funding. The rest must be raised by the church itself through appeals to private donors.

The restoration is unfolding in six well-documented phases that began in 2013 and will last until 2021, at a total cost of €5.7 million. Peanuts compared with the more than €20 million earmarked for the restoration of Chartres (now in its 10th year) and the estimated €150 million and 30 years it will take to spruce up Notre-Dame Cathedral. The FDD, in partnership with the American Friends for the Preservation of Saint-Germain-des-Prés (www.preservesaintgermain.org), has raised half of the total through several innovative initiatives, of which 100 per cent of the proceeds go directly into the preservation fund. American board member David Sheppe is passionately involved in the mission.

“We have accomplished a great deal since our campaign started,” he says. “But funding is always in short supply.”

The nave before work. © Agence Pierre-Antoine Gatier, P. Voisin.

Funding may be lacking, but not good ideas or avid supporters. Last December, Christie’s Paris hosted an auction of 40 contemporary artworks by the likes of Yves Klein, Josef Albers, Damien Hirst, Claes Oldenburg and Anish Kapoor – all donated by sympathetic galleries, collectors and the artists themselves – in which three of the works fetched more than €100,000 apiece.

But there is still quite a way to go. Committed donors of means can fund their very own section of the sanctuary. But in one of the foundation’s more exciting initiatives, Adopt a Saint Germain StarTM, benefactors of more modest means can choose any one of the 3,000 newly-glimmering stars on the abbey’s splendid vaulted ceilings for a $100 donation. The star will be illuminated with the donor’s, or a loved one’s, name on the American Friends website’s interactive ceiling for all to see. Individuals from anywhere in the world, lovers of Paris and Saint-Germain may find this an excellent way to leave their own indelible mark on the neighbourhood and on Paris.

As Langlois emphasises: “This is not a Catholic foundation but an arts and cultural movement and a celebration to transmit what we have received to generations to come.”

From France Today magazine

The restoration scaffolding. Photo: Jennifer Ladonne


Kerouac’s Mexico

I found Jack Kerouac’s Mexico on a strip of beach that separated the old hotels from the heaving Pacific, at a bar near where he sat on the sea wall and watched the sunset 61 years ago.

My best friends in Mazatlán, whom I had met only a day earlier, were behind me arguing and laughing. But with a beer in hand and my own perfect view of daylight’s final yawn, I was too blissed out to talk. The crashing waves sounded like drums, and everyone in the water seemed to be dancing: a tangle of teenagers splashed around and flirted, their wiry limbs shimmering like lures, then came a dazzling woman wearing a bathing suit of rainbow stripes, her bare feet catching the surf, her long hair waving in the breeze.

That moment was the closest I got to channeling Kerouac on my journey inspired by his 1952 bus trip from the Arizona border to Mexico City. The scene before me called to mind the Mazatlán he described to Allen Ginsberg: “hot and flat right on the surf, no tourists whatever, the wonder spot of the Mexicos really but nobody hardly knows, a dusty crazy wild city on beautiful Acapulco surfs.”

Still, I wondered, how much did Kerouac’s romantic vision match up with reality?

Mazatlán is one of the many places that the Beats used to bolster the idea of Mexico as the destination for debauched recreation and self-discovery. Hollywood headed south first (Errol Flynn and John Wayne vacationed along Mexico’s Pacific coast), but Kerouac and William S. Burroughs, who moved to Mexico City in 1949 to avoid a drug charge in New Orleans, laid down in literature a charmingly simple notion of the country that has endured.

Kerouac was a mythmaker in many respects. His writing turned struggling friends into epic heroes, and persuaded many youthful vagabonds (my former self included) to go now, to find saints among the sinners. Along the way, he created an impression that he and his ilk were not tourists, but rather ideal American travelers, engaged and sensitive, “desirous of everything at the same time,” as he wrote in “On the Road.”

But really, his “everything” was limited. Kerouac came to Mexico a half-dozen times in the ’50s and ’60s to experience greater freedom with drugs, drinking, writing and sex, in roughly that order. He stopped in Mazatlán for only a few hours, and though he told Ginsberg that sitting along the coast with his new Mexican friend and guide, Enrique, “was one of the great mystic rippling moments of my life,” he also insisted on hopping back on the bus to hurry on to Burroughs in Mexico City.

“Kerouac never took Mexico very seriously,” said Jorge García-Robles, a Mexican editor who has written several books about the Beats in Mexico. “It was a symbol more than something real.”

That attitude has been shaping Mexico ever since. Even now, as a correspondent here since 2010, I often see links between the idyllic American fantasy and Mexico’s most obvious failures (security) and triumphs (contemporary art). But Kerouac was a pioneer. And as a follower, I wanted to see where he went right or wrong, and what had changed since he helped define Mexico for millions of readers. Following the route from Mazatlán to Mexico City, I hoped to figure out if his dreamy vision could still be found, even as I confronted some of the cold, hard tragedies that many Americans miss.

As I sat soaking my feet in the rooftop pool at the renovated Hotel Freeman, Mazatlán’s first hotel tower, I could understand why the gringos came. The view ran up and down the Pacific coast, from the green islands offshore to the winding road heading south toward Puerto Vallarta. A light breeze kept me cool. The only sound came from the old elevator lurching to various floors.

It was the 1944 original, and initially quite a marvel. In old photos from its early years, the hotel towers over its neighbors, like a beacon of modernity — or a greedy grab for business. The builder was the son of Americans and even before the high-rise appeared, American ambition had put its stamp on the city. The first regular visitors to Mazatlán were 49ers, mining executives who used the port to reach rich mineral deposits farther inland. Their early rustic hotels for workers naturally led to greater ambitions. In addition to the Hotel Freeman and a few other properties on the main drag of Olas Altas, Americans also built the first beachfront resort in the tourist-centric Zona Dorada, or Golden Zone, a few miles north.

The early developers were betting on the growing desire by Mexico’s northern neighbors to vacation abroad, but with success came a predictable boom characterized by a boxy, generic style that would soon appear in Acapulco, Puerto Vallarta, Ixtapa and elsewhere. My newfound friends in Mazatlán, Dr. Juan Fernando Barraza and Victor Coppel, were among the many who disagreed on whether Mazatlán’s rapid growth from the ’60s through the ’80s — with all-inclusive resorts, time sharing and cruise lines — changed the city for the better.

Over our first meal together, a lunch of coconut-crusted shrimp at the Pueblo Bonito hotel, Dr. Barraza, 62, argued that it was an era defined by excess. Sinaloa, the state where Mazatlán is, was already a major source of marijuana in the United States by Kerouac’s time (a detail he had to know), but as American drug use increased in the decades that followed, Dr. Barraza said the easy money and the influence of American partyers gradually pushed Mazatlán from its simple roots.

“We haven’t copied the best Americans, but the worst,” said the doctor, who spent much of his career traveling the world as a physician on cruise ships.

Mr. Coppel, 60, a retired Mexican banker whose family has been influential here since the 1880s, insisted that it wasn’t that bad: American visitors have lifted the local economy by spending more than Mexicans or Canadians, according to business owners. He also emphasized that Mazatlán has long been a hub for shrimping, fishing and trade, making it less like Cancún and “kind of like San Francisco.”

Both my unofficial guides — relatives of a friend of mine in Los Angeles — did agree on one thing: Mazatlán was facing another moment of reconsideration. This city of 440,000 people now finds itself on the hungover side of a binge that began around Kerouac’s time, and as with Mexico itself, it is often hard to tell whether the future should be met with optimism or despair.

After lunch, Dr. Barraza took us to a location that perfectly captured the uncertainty: an abandoned oceanfront home squeezed between two new high-rise apartment buildings on the main tourist strip.

Viewed while looking west from the house’s patio, Mazatlán was a promising paradise: soft sand, warm water and a sea rich with shrimp and tuna. Turn around, though, and there was the graffiti-tagged house, formerly owned by drug cartel capos, followed by others. On the way to the Hotel Siesta, home to a Kerouac memorial plaque and the Shrimp Bucket — a restaurant founded in 1963 by the same Mexican and American partners who created the apex of night-life cheesiness, Señor Frog’s — we drove by another empty drug mansion and its adjacent nightclub. It had been closed for years. With giant fake rocks on the facade, it looked like a Disney prototype on meth.

That night we had dinner with a few Mazatlán intellectuals at a restaurant owned by Alfredo Gómez Rubio, the raspy-voiced president of the Centro Histórico Project, which is renovating the city center to draw people back from the Zona Dorada. With outdoor seating on the main plaza, the area is a centerpiece of the remodeling efforts, but when we arrived, I had just checked into the El Cid Castilla Beach, one of the best-known “Golden Zone” resorts. It was a total disaster. First the hotel staff overcharged me by nearly $500 then they ran out of towels at the pool.

Mr. Gómez Rubio called the whole tourist zone a mistake. “There was no concept or style,” he said. His restaurant by the main plaza, Pedro & Lola, couldn’t be further from that description. It featured a tasty menu heavy on shrimp and featured redwood beams brought from California in the 1850s. Mr. Gómez Rubio also owns the Hotel Melville a few blocks away (the author of “Moby Dick” visited in 1844), and he was a fan of Kerouac. As soon as I sat down, he showed me a worn Kerouac paperback with Spanish text and pink highlighter tracked over a paragraph that started “oh the sacred sea of Mazatlán” and ended with Kerouac praising “the city of the innocence.”

Mr. Gómez Rubio insisted that Mazatlán still deserves to be called a paradise. He said the drug violence that scared off Americans and cruise ship operators — it peaked in 2011, when a Canadian tourist was shot in the leg while caught in the cross-fire — was back under control. With gang warfare and street crime returning to lower levels. Mexican tourists were filling the void left by Americans, he said, and retirees were moving in. “We’re shifting the market,” he said. “We’re learning.”

I wanted to believe it. At times, I did: drinking that final beer and eating ahi tuna at La Corriente walking through El Quelite, a tiny town 20 minutes outside Mazatlán, where a local doctor turned his family home into a full rural experience, with food, animals and a kitschy performance by a Mexican cowboy.

But there were still so many dark omens. Kerouac’s vision of Mazatlán — and Mr. Gómez Rubio’s — left out the consequences of the Mexican lawlessness that, while allowing for epic highs, also produces refugees who are moving into fields on the city’s edge because teenagers with guns and dreams of cartel riches are demanding money to live in their rural mountain villages. Thousands of displaced families now occupy the no man’s land between El Quelite and new beachfront developments, and I found them only with help from Dr. Barraza and Mr. Coppel. That is where I met José Enciso Loaiza, who was hammering together a bed near a new slum named Las Vegas. He said 70 of the 90 families in his small town had already fled because of violence and government impotence. His life, from the pastoral to the punishing, was literature begging to be written.

When Kerouac reached Mexico City at dawn after a long bus ride through Guadalajara, he caught a few hours of sleep in “a criminal’s hovel,” then made his way to Burroughs’s house in La Roma, a turn-of-the-century neighborhood of grand old homes that was starting to slip into disrepair. Kerouac was supposed to meet up with Enrique later, but his heart wasn’t in it he never told him where Burroughs lived, and then Wild Bill “persuaded me to stick to him instead of Enrique.”

With that, Kerouac lost “a guy who could teach me where, what to buy, where to live, on nothing-a-month” and instead joined Burroughs’s insular world of Americans supposedly studying at a small college in La Roma that accepted payments from the G.I. Bill. Kerouac had visited in 1950 with Neal Cassady (the inspiration for Dean Moriarty in “On the Road”) so he knew what to expect: rowdy gringos a chance to drink and write, maybe fight, maybe love.

My arrival in La Roma after an overnight bus with lots of Mexican college students and fully reclined seats could not have been more different. It started with Alonso Vera Cantú, 33, a minor La Roma celebrity known as Pata de Perro — slang for someone with wanderlust — dragging me to a cramped breakfast counter for an almond latte and a sublime pastry drenched in olive oil and sugar. I had found Mr. Vera Cantú through his neighbor, a host of the popular local Twitter feed @LaRomaDF, and he clearly knew what he was doing. The coffee shop, La Panaderia, was relatively new, and between the food, the classical music, and the thin young women in tight houndstooth skirts, it could have been Paris.

That was La Roma’s original ideal the neighborhood was mostly American-built and French-inspired. But more recently, something more Mexican and contemporary has begun to emerge. Indeed if Mazatlán reflects what can go wrong when American excess mixes with Mexican impunity, La Roma represents what can go right when Mexicans with a taste of the world zero in on a single community.

As recently as 2000, the area was in serious trouble: seedy and old, marked by crumbling homes condemned after the 1985 earthquake and strip clubs lousy with lap dances. In some ways, it had reached the logical end point to what Kerouac enjoyed and wrote about in “Tristessa,” his novella about a Mexican prostitute. But its spaces were too good to give up, and eventually creative types moved in.

“When we started, it was rough,” said Walter Meyenberg, who opened the area’s first mezcal bar (La Botica) nine years ago when he was 27. “My first six months here, I was assaulted five times.” His arms were covered with tattoos as bright as flames. “La Roma’s like the meatpacking district in New York,” he said. “It’s going from rough to trendy to mainstream.” That’s when it’s ruined, he added.

For now, though, the neighborhood seems to be lingering in that sweet spot where rents are relatively affordable and whimsy thrives. A few blocks away from where we started, Mr. Vera Cantú — tall, with a head of tight brown curls — walked me into an old town house with a boutique on the first floor called 180º. The owners, José Carlos Iglesias and Bernardo López, worked on the second floor, and on the third, they rented rooms for less than $100 a night to friends or acquaintances with creative projects. All through the building, from the century-old family photos to the new T-shirts and bags, the style was unmistakably Mexican, and undeniably worldly.

I remembered what Mr. Vera Cantú had told me earlier about La Roma: “You can have tacos one minute, Champagne the next.” In this case, Mr. Iglesias, 37, had recently come back to Mexico (from working in Europe) to join Mr. López, 37 (who studied in Boston), for a romantic idea and a creative business — a fusion of past and present, Mexican and international.

All over the neighborhood, I saw a similar brew. “It’s so much easier for Mexicans to get out of the country now,” said Gerardo Traeger Mendoza, a co-owner of the Traeger & Pinto art gallery. “We’ve really reached a different point in terms of our relationship to the world.”

Mr. Vera Cantú was another obvious example. A travel writer, radio host and online curator of La Roma experiences, he took off around lunchtime, heading to France. That left me time to look for where Burroughs had hosted Kerouac. Their section of the neighborhood was still a little run down, but almost every block had a cafe and a restaurant.

On one tiny street near Plaza Luis Cabrera, where the Beats used to hang out, I noticed a deli cooler that seemed to be rolling into the sidewalk. It was filled with fine cheeses from Mexico, Spain and France, and the longhaired man at the counter was the owner. After giving me a taste of some strong cheese from Chihuahua, he told me the empty shelves behind him would soon be filled with good wine, for under $10 a bottle. “It’s for people who live in the neighborhood,” he said.

As I suspected, food and drink — always strong in Mexico — were becoming catalysts for growth. But corruption was still holding things back. Business owners said permits typically require bribes. To some degree, they argued, not much has changed since corruption helped Burroughs flee a murder charge after he shot and killed his wife during a game of William Tell a few months before Kerouac’s 1952 visit. Kerouac ran into it, too he avoided trouble early on in his trip when caught with marijuana by giving the cop some of his stash.

But these days, at least in La Roma, there is also a new check on the usual abuse of power.

Consider the case of Maximo Bistrot, one of the best restaurants in La Roma if not all of Mexico. In April, a social media revolt kept government inspectors from shutting it down after the daughter of the director of Mexico’s main consumer protection agency complained about not receiving the table she wanted. Then came an even greater coup: Enrique Peña Nieto, president of Mexico, fired her father, the agency chief.

When I showed up for lunch, the restaurant’s chef and owner, Eduardo García, 34, told me there are now fewer patrons asking, “Don’t you know who I am?” He said he still worries about inspectors, but he also refuses to pay anyone off. “I’m not going to live outside the law, with them in charge,” he said. It was a bold statement, given how Mexico works.

But then Mr. García, bearded and broad-shouldered, is the son of migrant workers who took him north at age 5. He learned to cook in their restaurant in Atlanta before heading to Le Bernardin in New York, and though he could have opened a bistro anywhere, he did it here, in Mexico, in La Roma.

The result? My own Mexican paradise: French wine, innovative Mexican food, with 1960s American soul playing in the background.

It wasn’t nearly as rustic or drug-fueled as Kerouac’s version, but as I finished eating — a wonder of roasted red pepper soup and yellowtail sashimi with chiles and avocado — I tried to imagine what Kerouac would have made of it.

Maybe it depends on which Kerouac we imagine. He was 30 when he took that bus trip, and he was mostly too self-absorbed to see beyond the “frenzy and a dream” that defined his visit in “On the Road.” Clearly, young Kerouac would have ignored Maximo Bistrot and the refugees in Mazatlán. But what about Kerouac as an old man? If he hadn’t died from alcoholism in 1969 at age 47, maybe he would have moved to Mexico and tried harder to understand and explain the country.

Yes, I thought as I lingered at my table, indulging in another moment of Kerouac-inspired bliss. With more time alive and in Mexico, Kerouac could have been someone that Mexico and the United States still sorely need: a binational conscience. Imagine the trips he could have made, the complicated, multilayered stories he could have told about life on both sides of the border. Imagine the everything.


Pan-Roasted Halibut, Chanterelles with Pea Shoots

I don’t cook with mushrooms a whole lot. In fact, I grew up not liking them, always pushing them aside on my plate. Now, I’m far from a lover of mushrooms (unless they’re truffles?), but I’ll usually eat them if put in front of me.

I stumbled upon some chanterelles at the Hollywood Farmers Market a couple weeks ago and just had to have them. I had no idea what I was gonna cook with them, but I was inspired to do sesuatu with them.

Taking my chanterelles home, I browsed through some of my cookbooks to figure out the rest of the dish. Immediately catching my eye was a recipe in Ad Hoc at Home for sauteed chanterelle mushrooms with pea shoots. It was relatively easy to do and I had most of the ingredients on hand. A recommended protein pairing was another recipe in the cookbook: pan-roasted halibut. My planning was done.

The two recipes, from Ad Hoc at Home:

Pan-roasted halibut

2 pounds halibut fillet, cut into 12 rectangular pieces
Garam kosher
Canola oil
Minyak zaitun extra-virgin
Fleur de sel

Remove the fish from the refrigerator and let stand for 15 minutes.

Position oven racks in the lower and upper thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Check the halibut to be sure all bones were removed. Season on both sides with salt. Add some canola oil to two large ovenproof frying pans and heat over high heat until it shimmers. (If you don’t have two pans, cook the fish in batches and transfer to a rack set over a baking sheet, then finish in the oven.) Add 6 pieces of halibut to each pan, presentation (nicer) side down, lower the heat to medium-high, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the bottom of the fish is golden. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook for 2 more minutes. Transfer the pans to the oven and cook for about 2 minutes, until just cooked through.

Remove the pans from the oven, flip the fish over, and “kiss” the second side for about 30 seconds. Transfer to a platter, and serve with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkling of fleur de sel.

Chanterelle mushrooms with pea shoots

2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons of finely chopped shallots
3 tangkai thyme
8 ounces small chanterelles or other mushrooms in season, trimmed and washed
Garam halal dan lada hitam yang baru digiling
1/4-1/2 cup chicken stock
1 1/2 cups pea shoots
Minyak zaitun dara tambahan
Fleur de sel

Melt the butter in a medium saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the shallots and cook the shallots for 2 to 3 minuntes, until tender. Add the thyme and mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 5 minutes, until the mushrooms are almost tender (if the pan becomes too dry, add a little of the chicken stock).

Add 1/4 cup chicken stock and cook, adding more stock as needed, about 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mushrooms are tender. Continue to cook until the stock is reduced to a glaze. Discard the thyme.

Add the pea shoots and stir just to wilt and incorporate, about 30 seconds. Transfer to a serving bowl, drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle with fleur de sel.

I began with the chanterelles, cooking them according to the recipe. I wasn’t too worried about this part of the dish it was pretty straightforward.

I was more concerned about the fish. I wanted to ensure I got a crispy, golden crust while not overcooking. The recipe called for the halibut to be cooked almost entirely on one side, carefully controlling the heat. It would only be flipped over at the end to finish the other side for 30 seconds.

I was pretty happy with the way it turned out. My fish broke apart a little bit as I was flipping it and I wanted a little more browning, but temperature-wise I think I had it down. While a meaty fish, it stayed pretty moist. The chanterelles were delicious, and I really liked the bright crispness that the pea shoots brought to the plate. It was relatively quick to make too, always a plus. However, it was on the expensive side – the raw ingredients cost about $30 for the one plate.


Tonton videonya: The Moment in Time: The Manhattan Project (Ogos 2022).